Mulloskeys Adventures Abroad

Is there any better feeling that strapping a huge pack on your back and hopping a bus to the airport? Not for these two travelers. Sharing the next 5 days with our friends Katie and Jordan (a.k.a. Jorkat) was much more than an added bonus. This experience would either solidify our friendship forever or leave it in tattered ruins. All four of us were secretly anxious.

Our first real laugh came at the expense of a drug smuggling warning sign.

Our arrival and bus ride from the airport was painless. Erin, the best travel partner ever, had booked us a hostel across the street from Taipei main station. The perfect launch pad for rail and subway travel out of and around the city.

The hostel was nothing special, until the owner offered us the VIP room since the place was empty. Like a tree fort 23 stories above downtown Taipei, this was truly one of the most unique places I’ve ever slept (though the whole I night I had nightmares about rolling out the window).

Our first stop was to the famous Taipei 101 building, formerly the tallest building in the world until Dubai decided to show off even more than the Taiwanese… still at over 1/2 a kilometre high, not too shabby.

It was raining slightly and as we approached so we decided to go to the top another day. Instead, we hit up the food court in the basement. A huge variety of cuisines were at our fingertips and we all went in different directions. I almost chocked on some squid as the membrane got logged in my esophagus. It didn’t stop me from finishing it through. Here are some of our dishes:

On the way out we noticed a really cool automated bike rental system. For you urban planners out there (ahem* ahem*), this is a really cool idea. Some sort of membership card tied to a credit card lets you unlock bikes from this depot and drop them of at other all around the city. Super cool.

Next stop, Longshan Temple. When we emerged from the underground we found ourselves in a park surrounded by old men playing some sort of checkers like game. It was a great place to relax with a beer following the temple visit.

The facade of the temple entrance had two striking features we hadn’t seen in other temples in other countries. First, the design features were much more ornate and colourful than that of Korea or China. Second, there was a digital message board displaying information such as the temple’s own website (which one could argue slightly dampened its old-world appeal… not to mention, I’m already here! Stop advertising.):

We timed our visit to arrive during prayer time. Another first for us, it was a multi-faith temple (as are many in Taiwan… mixtures of Buddhist, Taoist, and Taiwanese Tribal Spirituality), so worshippers of all faiths gather … a very inspiring community of neighbours. Here hundreds of visitors chanted, bowed, lit incense, lit candles and made offerings to the temple. It was euphoric. The four of us barely spoke. We were in reverent awe; knowingly on sacred ground and feeling blessed to be simply present.

Its hard to balance the desire to document and share this experience, while at the same time ensuring that our photo taking isn’t being received as voyeuristic or offensive to our hosts. No one seemed to mind, and we were sure to be as discrete as possible. It was amazing, the chanting hypnotic.

As for the offerings, they ranged from full chickens to crackers to cans of soda. I assume these are for the monks to consume. Happy are the monks who got their hands on the Ferrero Roche chocolates! (See if you can spot them on the table)

There was a beautiful waterfall and pond flanking the entrance as we walked out. I asked a woman to take a picture for us and she literally ran away from me.

The girls had better luck…

We went back to the park and had a beer and waited for the adjacent night market and famous “snake alley” to open up. While we waited we watched an interesting fountain/light display, and a poor old Chinese man get screamed at by what must have been his wife, for about 1.5hours straight! For sure this guy did something terrible to have experienced the wrath he did…

On a quick bathroom break Jordan and I were at side by side urinals when he told me not to move and look up. This is what I saw. Keep in mind were were several stories underground at the subway restrooms (shiver).

Next came our first taste of Taipei’s vibrant night market scene. Here an array of snacks, some discernible and many not, beckoned our hungry palates. We were not to be deterred. There was only one meal on our minds and we “bee-lined” it straight to snake alley.

There was, however, one brief stop Jordan and I couldn’t resist. I used my reach unfairly and crushed him while an amazing little girl watched on:

At last we found it. Though much tamer than in previous decades due to lack of patronage, “Snake Alley” still boasts some impressive, and delicious cobras. I had been craving some cobra meat since Indoneasia, and was confident that Jorkat would be willing to try some. These were the only snakes we could take pictures of. Also the mice they raised for their food.

What makes Snake alley unique is not the snake meat but the snake blood, bile, penis and poison. Formerly they killed the snake in front of you, but this practice has been abandoned in recent years. The blood, bile, penis and venom are added to alcohol and consumed for virility. One of the glasses was called “snake poison”. I trusted that it was safe but under Erin’s advice decided to not have it. That is why in the pics/video the glass with the white liquid is set aside. (In fact, she made me promise not to drink the venom… for obvious reasons). I quickly buckled under the pressure and drank it down when the nice Taiwanese lady told me to – as you can see in the video. I spent the next few hours hoping not to die.

Here is the process breakdown:

First glass – Cobra blood – drink 1/2 glass

Next Cobra bile – 1/2 glass, Cobra Poison 1/2 glass, Cobra Penis 1/2 glass,

Finally eat 2 mystery pills – chase with beer. Don’t puke. High five a friend.

Kudos to Jorkat for eagerly consuming some Cobra meat following my questionable display. I think they liked it. If I had told them it was seafood it might have made it a bit better. Despite the fact that I think the meat is truly delicious (a cross between chicken and monkfish), it’s hard not to think about where it comes from. Good for them for taking the leap.

Our nest stop was to check out one of Taipei’s thriving night markets. On our way from the metro stop was a cool looking bar – all a toilet theme. Each seat was a toilet and patrons were beckoned to enter by the “golden poo” in the window.

Shillin night market is considered the king amongst its peers. One thing that was so nice about Taipei was the lack of tourists/foreigners. Though we did see more in Shillin, for the most part we were the sole travelers wherever we went. The market was cool but less impressive than other markets we have seen across Asia. I guess because so much of what we use back home was “Made in Taiwan”, I expected more options. The homemade sausages and stinky tofu and green onion pancakes were great to snack on. So was this spicy wrap.

Out of nowhere all the stalls in the middle of the market were collapsing and scattering into hidden corners and alleys. We barely got our camera out in time. Within seconds, all that remained were pedestrians and 4 confused tourists. The police officer on motorcycle quickly provided the explanation.

Within seconds they returned. Erin’s commentary captures the events as they unfold.

After the market our “dogs were barking” (that one’s for Judy) so we did the only thing we could – massage! The massages were more expensive than in other parts of Asia but there were some perks worth the price. First was the foot soak in special salts. I could have settled for that alone, if my feet fit in the little bowl-tub. Next was the personal television screen and headphones attached to each seat. Watching baseball (Jordan) and Discovery Channel Travel & Living (myelf) did nothing to distract us from the spine piercing pain these masochists were unleashing on our poor bridges. OUCH! I found myself wondering how much I would pay to have them stop. Erin was in heaven. I don’t like my feet touched to begin with, let alone abused like this. I swore not to get another foot message so long as I lived. I think the girls had a better time. Here are some picks before it got out of hand.

Check out the selection. It’s nice to have so many options especially when one wishes to have them “on push the fat”

We stumbled back to the subway in agony. We emerged into the Taipei Main Station and walked across the street to our hotel. I couldn’t resist the temptation for a McNightcap. I hadn’t been to McDonalds in months and since I didn’t get a majority of ‘no’s’ from the group, the game was afoot. Those who know me well will testify to my weakness towards one double cheeseburger. Especially when made right – the cheese between the patties for that unmistakable manufactured taste. Imagine my delight when I saw the advertisement for a Triple Cheeseburger. Such things are the stuff of dreams.

And as for our pre-trip jitters… Jorkat are amazing co-travellers and an excellent daily source of all things fun. For a different perspective from our friends… please visit www.jorkat.com for more trip highlights.